If you are looking at Goa beyond it's
beaches and parties, here I am listing few very interesting and
offbeat things to do there. Even better, if its monsoons - for its
very quiet, green and getting little bit drenched while riding on
your bike is FUN. I have been visiting Goa over monsoons since past
many years, but it was this year that my head was reeling to explore
something new and exciting. And i was not disappointed at all, infact
I got new insights into the state otherwise equated to beach, sun,
alcohol and parties. This was Goa from olden days, not beaten down by
tourist traffic, but offering pure essence of Goan culture and
heritage.
1. Spice Plantations, Ponda
Ponda maps itself in central Goa,
marked with vast areas of forested lands, quaint villages and small
temples. There are several spice plantations privately owned and
maintained generations after generations.
I visited Savoi Plantations. It covers
about 100 acres of land with all sorts of trees and plantations
stretching onto a hill. While yes it took several wrong turns and
missed landmarks before we could reach Savoi from Margaon in about
1.5 hrs, but that's not a complain at all. Lack of signage on roads
is quickly fixed by enthusiastic and helpful team at Savoi who will
call and keep directing on roads. And more than anything else, its
the 'getting-lost' drive through forests and Goan hamlets which will
take you in a different plane all together !
A call before your visit is highly
recommended because they offer home-made sumptuous authentic Goan
lunch too, which you surely don't want to miss. Our very young and
eager plantation guide informed us that plantations are over 200
years old, 100% Organic and have been maintained by the same family
generation after generations. It was very interesting and
knowledgeable to see for real where our cloves, bay leaves, beetle
nuts, pepper, cardamom etc come from. These plantations are extremely
rich and well maintained, one can also find pineapple, lemon grass,
coconut (of course), jackfruit, papaya, vanilla [yes :) !!] and likes
too.
Overall an excellent day-trip which is
a must-visit for nature lovers.
Fee : Rs. 500/ person including
wonderful and hearty Goan lunch.
Shop: You may also opt to buy their
organic spices, essential oils and a magic lamp from their shop which
is nothing more than cute small wooden board with spice compartments.
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Lunch at Savoi Plantations |
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Plantations |
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Goan Wild Mushrooms |
2. Latin Quarters, Panaji
A delight for lovers of art, history,
architecture, photography and desserts. Totally!
Questioning locals on the Panaji
riviera front about latin quarter might give blank looks, but just
ask them about Mala & Fontainhas areas and they will
enthusiastically give you directions for it. Quite distinctly marked
by narrow lanes, portuguese villas painted in bright hues, quietness
and cleanliness, latin quarter of Panaji is where you must go if you
want to see how the streets looked when Portuguese were around.
Thankfully most of the houses here still retain their old-world charm
and this area is best visited on foot or on by-cycle through its by
lanes. A number of art galleries can be located around here which
also have a cafe inside.
After our wide-eyed sojourn with this
quaint and highly chraracterised neighborhood, we settled in Baba's
Wood Cafe. This restaurant is clubbed along with its own garden
accessories & furniture gallery and a small wine cellar. Very
well spaced and built into an old heritage villa with laterite walls,
this Italian restaurant offers a small but one of the most delectable
food & drinks menu. Cafe space has been left open with loungers,
sun beds, sofas, tables-chairs or even high stools at the bar. Pizzaz
are baked in traditional wood fire ovens and the server will not
hesitate to inform you if the fresh mushrooms required on your pizza
could not be procured that day in the market and if they can replace
it with zucchini ?! Small menu & fresh produce is what I hunger
for, and I found it here. Oh and not to forget, their to-die-for
freshly baked desserts! As usual, my lunch started with the dessert
;).
P.S. Just also happened to notice, this
restaurant/cafe has won “Best New Comer” award from The Times
Food and Nightlife Awards- 2012.
Address:
Building No. 49, Mala Fontainhas, Panaji (Near Maruti Temple)
Web: https://www.facebook.com/Babaswoodcafe
Web: https://www.facebook.com/Babaswoodcafe
Its
strange after having been visiting Goa year after year, I never could
pick myself up to go and see the famous historical churches in Old
Goa. But this time was different. We drove our way into Old Goa- Off
National Highway17 (NH 17) and about 10 kms from Panaji. Full of
character, this olden days' capital of Goa truly stands to its name
in terms of architecture, civic amenities and yes people too. We
visited about six churches here and I am not going to list them
individually and describe each of them. I will tell you about some
peculiar/ interesting things which I saw or heard.
The
biggest and the most popular of all, Basilica of Bom Jesus, a UNESCO
world heritage site, holds the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier-
the patron saint of Goa.
A
little chat with a nearby cafe owner gives us more insight into what
is widely believed and accepted. He tells us that the saint died on
his way to China in 1552 and was buried there. But later it was
decided to transfer his remains back to Goa when it was noticed that
his body was as fresh. Saint's body has never been chemically treated
or mummified, instead its been in perfect form since he died in 1552
! Its only in between when catholic group here wanted to convey this
miracle to Vatican which asked for proof. Finding no other way, they
cut saint's one arm and shipped to Vatican. To everyone's surprise
blood flowed out of cut arm from the body (after 200 yrs of death)
and led the shrinkage of body. But body still remains here in this
church inside a decorated case. The body is 'exposed' every 10 years
for about 45 days and next schedule is in 2014 Nov- Jan which will
attract hoards of faithfuls and tourists alike to seek blessings or
simply witness this phenomenon.
He
also informs about the shift of Portuguese capital from Old Goa to
Panaji in 18th century. It happened due to plague epidemic
which hit Old Goa and shift of population 10 kms away to Panaji (then
another village). Well the good result was that Old Goa till date
retains its old world charm and not increasingly commercialized like
Panaji.
After
having finished his story and describing his love for Goa, he doesn't
shy away from complaining about the tourist guides hanging around the
church and apparently giving away all jumbled up and wrong
information to visitors. He also looks tired and dejected when
talking about 'new-age' young tourists who only correlate Goa to
alcohol and parties. He talks about origin of tourism in Goa which
was primarily, to visit the church and take blessings from the
saint's remains. Slowly people started discovering beaches and then
it never looked back. The beach shacks etc are much recent
phenomenon.
Then
of course we visited other churches with their own history,
architecture, beliefs, art and museums.
A
full day walk through the town and some scooty rides in its villages
makes your complete day!
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Basilica of Bom Jesus |
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Church of saint Cajotao |
4. Goa Chitra, Benaulim
This
place is recommended for lovers of art, nature, history and
sustainable living. If you are visiting or staying in South Goa then
this place can provide an interesting flashback into our ancestral
heritage. Its a privately owned collection of about 4000 pieces of
ancient farming tools, kitchen utensils, various vases, doors,
windows, musical instruments, chairs etc! A new section to the museum
(not yet formally inaugurated) introduces carriages and wheels from
ancient days, we happened to see at least 50-60 of them restored and
carefully displayed in a hall. We are also informed that a collection
of clothes and jewellery from ancient days is also into work and
shall be put up soon. The whole guided tour of Goa Chitra takes about
1 hour and thats not all to it.
In
its background lies 100% organic farm of size about 1,20,000 sq ft.
There is a rain water harvested well of size about 30 feet wide and
12 feet wide which is used not only for fish cultivation but to meet
the complete farming needs as well. There is also a bio-gas unit,
organic manure tank and of course compost too.
The
entire structure of Goa Chitra has been made by reutilising and
recycling materials such as wood work, pillars, railings, doors,
windows- all recovered from 300 demolished houses. All these items
contribute to the contemporary design of structure with traditional
elements and technologies.
There
is an open kitchen (closed when we visited- prior intimation is
required for food to be served) and juice bar. And top it all musical
nights and gatherings are arranged sometimes in this very house,
located deep inside the quaint village of Benaulim.
And
all this is one man's effort- Victor Hugo Gomes. Kudos to him !


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